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What to Do in Antigua

ORIENTATION

Basically, the bus station is on the west of town, on Alameda Santa Lucia. Vertical streets (that is from N to S) are named ‘Avenue’ 7 (W) to 1 (E). Horizontal streets are named ‘Calle’ 1 (N) to 7 (S). The Plaza (Parque Central), at the center of town, marks the limit between the N-S and the E-W. Therefore, you get Calle ‘poniente’ (W) or ‘oriente’ (E) and Avenue ‘norte’ (N) or ’sur’ (S). Get a free map to make it clear!

WHAT CAN YOU DO?

  • Get a map from the bus station or from any travel agent
  • Walk the streets again and again, from one colonial building to another
  • Shop for any kind of souvenirs, from jade to textile (best at nearby San Antonio Aguas Calientes)
  • Eat any kind of food, from hamburgers to Chinese (dishes)
  • Visit art galleries
  • Take spanish lessons at one of the numerous schools in the area. Relax and forget the dusty roads
  • Visit the tourist office for the latest safety issues
  • Watch impressive processions (the best of all Central America being during Semana Santa, Easter week) Read more
  • Climb volcanoes! Read more

CLIMBING A VOLCANO

VolcanoAgua, an extinct volcano (very much visible to the South) involves 4-6 hours climbing or Pacaya, the only active (and sometimes very active) volcano in the area that requires only 1-2 hrs walk. Nowadays, most people choose to climb Pacaya. It costs $5-8 depending on the agency. Make sure that it is a registered agency and do not carry valuables with you. You will leave at 1pm and come back at 9pm. Most agencies (if not all) will meet each other for the climbing to the top, which means you will be spotting the bubbling lava with 30 or so other excited people.

THE TRADITIONS OF SEMANA SANTA

Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Antigua is possibly the most impressive celebration in all of Central America, with half a million tourists showing up for the event. The tradition is thought to have been introduced by the Conquistador Alvarado in the 16th century, straight from Spain. Today, the religious fervor of the participants is visible through all the senses: the colorful costumes, massive andas (platform) & delicate carpets (alfombras) up to 100m long, the scents of flowers & incense and the music from the local brass bands.

Semana SantaThe making of the carpets (with tinted sand, sawdust, flowers, fruits, seeds, grains, vegetables and lots of creativity) starts on Thursday evening and lasts until sunrise on Good Friday, when the Processions of Penance start. To get the privilege of imitating Christ carrying His cross, local people must pay a fee (Q25-50) to the brotherhood of each church, a way to finance the huge decorating expenses. Taking part is a great honor, a way of washing one’s sins away and many “turnos” are passed down from father to son. The weight of the anda (some cedar platforms weight 3.8 tones and need 80 cucuruchos to carry them) and the size of the “brothers” (from floor to shoulder) make a natural selection: too short or weak men cannot carry. There will be many shifts during the procession, each shift carrying the anda one block of Antigua. 

Among the many churches, the procession of La Merced is arguably the most famous. It will be lead by 80 men dressed as Roman soldiers, usually coming from Guatemala City while the Ministry of Defense provides the “cavalry” of 21 horses and riders. 30-40 musicians follow the anda. And that is only for Jesus’ anda ! (there are other platforms, like Virgin Marie’s, carried by women). The Good Friday procession last from 6am to 3pm, the time of the Crucifiction, when cucuruchos wearing white & purple will change into black . The Palm Sunday procession leaves the church at 1pm and returns at 11pm. Ask the tourist office for a map of the processions.

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